Before Katharine Hamnett, slogan t-shirts didn’t exist, no one had ever heard of “organic” cotton, and clothing had never been used as an overt canvas for the promotion of political agendas. Katharine Hamnett, the outspoken London based designer best known for her high ethical standards, is no stranger to controversy. A graduate of Central Saint Martins, Hamnett launched her namesake label in 1979, and very quickly spun her passionate viewpoint into fashion legend.  Her most famous moment of course, was the time she met the then Prime Minister Margaret Thatcher wearing a large over sized white t-shirt that read “58% Don’t Wear Pershing,” a reference to the percentage of UK citizens who, according to polls, were against the basing of Pershing missiles in their country.

Hamnett happens to be one of those designers who uses fashion to express her true passions and her politics with tremendous effect.  In the mid nineties, Hamnett became aware of the inhumane labor practices used in the manufacturing of fabrics and clothing, and immediately set out to change the industry.  Unfortunately, not everyone was as moved to action as Hamnett.  At the time, no one had ever really questioned the use of child labor or pesticide sprayed cotton, and no one wanted to confront the issues.  In fact, the lack of support Hamnett encountered nearly ended her career as she was forced to sever nearly all of her licenses and agreements.

Luckily for us, Hamnett rose again, in 2005, with a newly arranged business model that adhered to her ethical vision, using only 100% organic cotton and very stringent manufacturing processes.

Today Hamnett continues to promote new models for safer agricultural standards and sustainability in fashion. Even her slogan t-shirts seem to be coming back into vogue again!

-featured image by Barbara Kruger

I cannot begin to tell you how long I have waited for this day to come!   YSL announced today that Hedi Slimane would be stepping up to the plate as Creative Director, which means that he is returning (after a five year hiatus) to fashion!

And the sky opened….

Hedi Slimane just so happens to be a major idol of mine, and I have followed his career since he first shook the fashion world back in the early 2000′s as the head of Dior Homme.  In fact Dior Homme remains one of my favorite houses, and this is largely due to the fact that it has mostly retained the game changing aesthetic influence that Slimane brought to the party.  He is, in fact, responsible for pulling the skinny pant off the concert stage and onto the runway.  His ultraslim silhouette, rocker inspired accessories, and mix of grunge and glam still dominates the sceniest of scenes (including Bedford Avenue).

But I am not so much a trend girl, so what is it about Slimane?  Is it his reclusiveness, his hesitance to do interviews, his androgynous demeanor?  Maybe it is what appears to be his lack of interest in fame or money?   Or could it be that I sense his withholding nature and thus need to know more?  Actually, I think it’s his pictures.

When Slimane left design he focused almost entirely on his photography, which is mostly black and white fashion and music editorial pieces.  In fact, some might argue that both music and photography are likely to be Slimane’s true loves, and his work designing clothes is simply an extension of these interests, as well all know that music, fashion, and photography are profoundly intertwined.  Slimane’s images are simple, raw, and compelling.  They are exquisite examples of the depth that can be had in portrait photography.  They all also exude a kinetic sense of movement, and gorgeous grain texture.

It is no mistake that YSL also named Slimane as their Image Director.  It will be interesting to see how the new advertising campaigns will reflect Slimane’s personal photographic style.

Below are just a few examples pulled from www.hedislimane.com

-home page featured image, self portrait by Hedi Slimane

-top of page image sourced from Style.com

Balmain Channels Oscar Wilde.

Balmain recently appointed Olivier Rousteing (pictured above) as the new Head Designer, and he has some pretty big shoes to fill.  Christophe Decarnin’s highly successful run as previous Head Designer at Balmain since 2005, established the house as the go-to source for rock and roll sexpot diggs.  His design inspired a cult following, numerous knockoffs across the globe, and delivered a veritable “sure thing” to buyers looking to maximize retail profit during a tough economy.

Rousteing has excellent footing in the business to prepare him for the feat (experience at Roberto Cavalli and as an underwing at Balmain prior to the promotion) but only time will tell whether his vision will be accepted by Balmain devotees.

I have yet to fully evaluate the womenswear line for 2012/2013 (maybe soon), but if the menswear is any indication of Rousteing’s talent and taste level, then the future looks bright.  Neon lights bright!

The first thing you will notice with the new aesthetic Rousteing is bringing to Balmain is a sense of classicism, and traditional elegance paired with an appreciation for weighted luxury fabrics.  As opposed to the Ziggy Stardust meets Sid Vicious of Decarnin, Rousteing prefers a kind of sexiness derived from a mix of collegiate athlete, raffish charmer, and just a little bit of Wilde’s dandy.

In fact, on a sexiness level, I give this collection an eleven!

One of the things I love about menswear is how men have no problem “building themselves up” so to speak.  Adding brawn and volume to their figures to create presence.  This is obvious I know.  Women always seek clothes to make them appear smaller, but I think there must be a way for women to adopt this practice as well, without looking plump, but, rather “commanding.”

Either way, I am already envisioning ways to pull this look off for myself!  This may involve a little thrifting for the right military coat or rummaging around for some long johns that can pass for proper trousers.  Wish me luck!

If ever there was a designer who understands how to interpret aspirational ideals into truly wearable pieces, it it Rick Owens. I am more and more in awe of his work with each passing collection. Although Owens aesthetic may be too rigorous or dark for some, I urge anyone who has not actually examined his work in person to do so. On the runway his pieces may seem too angular or stiff, but in reality you will find them to be the exact opposite. Instead, his are clothes that drape and mold themselves to the body of the wearer beautifully. Rick Owens is one of the only designers I am aware of to make clothing at this LEVEL of wearability. It is just something you must experience for yourself.

Below is the full length show of the Rick Owens Fall/ Winter 2012-2013 Womenswear collection from Paris Fashion Week, a collection inspired by “mountains,” and all the metaphysical associations that go along with them. Think majestic, aspirational, and meditational.

The Menswear collection we saw a couple of months ago, also blew my mind. I think this was his strongest men’s offering yet.  Rick Owens menswear has always been incredibly strong, pulling references from the dark gothic aesthetic, deconstructivism, and traditional sportswear.   Those leather collars sculpted to look like scarves blowing in the wind are genius.  I also noticed the pasts, and dream of a time when women will be offered highly articulated statement pants with the same silhouette.

Images sourced from Homotography

I also really enjoy how he incorporates street elements with couture silhouettes.  Riccardo Tisci for Givenchy is another designer who does this very well. Tisci’s photography campaign of his most recent Haute Couture collection was set against the backdrop of a basketball court.

How do you steal the spotlight away from the gorgeous designs of Cristobal Ghesquiere for Balenciaga?  Only Pierre Hardy knows. The two have been in collaboration for quite some time now, turning out gorgeous footwear selections Balenciaga for each collection. These killer stiletto pointy-toe heels from the fall/ winter 2011 show are still on my mind!

Pierre Hardy is a veritable fashion workhorse. In addition to his collaborations with Ghesquiere, he oversees shoes and jewelry for the luxury house of Hermes, and also produces his own line. Quite impressive for someone who seems to fly under the radar, having yet to receive household name status.

Upon studied inspection you will something altogether different about Pierre Hardy’s work. There is no implicit aim towards conveyed sex appeal, and yet, the shoes are unbelievably sexy, in a rather art school/ academia sort of way. Architecture, painting, and sculpture could also very easily be read into Hardy’s work as points of reference. It is always said that women dress for themselves and not others.  Pierre Hardy is one of those shoe designers that truly gets this. The woman who wears his shoes shares a  vision equal to the designer. She is in on the genius.

One of the things I find most interesting about the Fall/ winter 2011 shoe collection is the way in which the ankles are completely covered, almost concealed in a puritanical sort of way, while the arch is given peekaboo preference.  I mention this only because the dominant trend in footwear on the runways for the past several years has been the nearly nonexistent sandal with one ankle strap, and one tiny toe strap.  It is a reminder to us all that sometimes covered up and withholding is the sexiest of all!

All images from the Balenciaga Fall 2011 Campaign shot by Steven Meisel

As Raf Simons says goodbye to Jil Sander, and possibly steps up to the Dior plate, it is a good time to look at the amazing work the designer did to revive a dying brand.

Jil Sander as a brand has always been based on structured classics with a subdued elegance and simplicity. Simons freshened up this persona by adding bold colors, prints, couture cuts, and a sense of narrative.  Raf Simons has a very unique way of creating effortlessly wearable clothing imbued with depth and content.  There is no need for excess embellishments, or overly complex patterns for a design by Simons to speak volumes.   His work is truly modern.  Even when drawing from vintage silhouettes for inspiration, Raf Simons pushes the language forward into a dreamlike world of futuristic lightness.  It is a world that evokes optimism.  There is always something about Raf Simons work that conjures images of the gleaming sun reflecting off of water for me.  There is a calming, singular presence in his vision, a sense of confidence.

-image sourced from Fashion Rules

-image sourced from Best Clothing Company

Below are clips from three of his most recent collections for the brand which were truly sublime. It will be interesting to see where Sander herself takes the brand now that she is back at the design helm. What do you think, will the brand regret the loss of Raf Simons?

How do you blend the demands of a modern lifestyle with the elegance and traditions of the past ?  Blanc de Chine, the Hong Kong based luxury brand, founded by Kin Yeoung, holds the key to this mystery offering a full lifestyle targeted brand focused on timelessness and the restoration of a  cultural identity that was founded on quality.

As you enter the gorgeous fifth avenue retail experience that is Blanc de Chine, you may think that you are walking into just another high end luxury boutique, as it it bookcased by Fendi and Rolex, but you would be wrong.  The first thing that speaks to the genius of Asian inspired dressing, is the lack of excessive embellishment or accessories.  The shapes and silhouettes you see here are cut in such a way as to negate the need for “completion.”  They are stand alone pieces, as well as fluid garments that can all be easily layered upon one another for an infinite combination of looks, both casual and formal.

The name Blanc de Chine is derived from a European term for fine white Chinese porcelain that was considered to be a highly coveted and sought after collector’s item during the 18th century.  It was chosen to reflect the desire of Blanc de Chine to restore the global reputation of China as a leader in fine craftmanship, quality, and luxury; a view that suffered when mass industrial manufacturing practices took over, and the “made in china” label lost its credibility.

This false perception quickly dissolves as soon as you run your fingers over the ingenious fabrics, custom made and exclusive to the brand at Blanc de Chine, including a silk which has been treated to look like leather, and an absolutely spectacular poly crepe which feels both indestructible and soft on the skin.  They call this their “traveling fabric” because it doesn’t wrinkle, is easy to pack, and can be hand washed and hung for a super quick dry.

One of the most amazing lines from Blanc de Chine is their Dao collection, which consists of several pieces constructed of one flat piece of fabric.  They are abstract, mysterious shapes which can be worn in multiple ways, and can be folded perfectly into a suitcase taking almost no space.

One of my favorite pieces from the Dao collection is this wrap around vest/ dress/ cardigan. It is extremely flattering, versatile, and created a beautiful A-line silhouette from both the front and the side.

Although there are very few accessories in store, there is a collection of scarves which border on couture pieces in their intricacy.  This one mimics one of the same designs from the Dao collection, which is a square with a circle cut center. It is stitched together delicately and invisibly, turning it into an art piece to wear.

And this one below is completely made by razor-cut!

Blanc de Chine as a concept brand is rounded out by the inclusion of an amazing men’s department, home offerings which feature hand stitched quilting, and a casual wear/ yoga/ workout line.

The Retail Phenomenon that is Zara makes things fast, cheap, and only produces limited quantity items in order to beat their retail competitors, but at what price to the environment, the fashion industry at large, and our personal sense of satisfaction and fulfillment? Zara is the leader of the the fast fashion movement, and as a company it continues to grow at an astounding pace.

To what extent do designer and luxury brands suffer from the ability of Zara to receive two day per week shipment deliveries, offer dirt cheap prices, and blatantly copy works of some of the most highly trained and talented designers working today?

With the modern day bombardment of more and more information and sensory input are we heading in the direction of “wear once and toss” clothing? With the trend that splashed the headlines yesterday becoming available within hours, are we losing the natural luxury of desiring something in waiting, and then, basking in the culmination of attainment?

As a culture are we losing our ability to make informed and deliberate consumer choices based upon the concept of “curation?” Or, instead, do we now simply accumulate items only to quickly lose interest and move on to the next. Zara sure hopes this to be the case, and based upon their near global domination at the high street level, I would say we are there.

What percentage of the items in your wardrobe are truly cherished items that fit your body perfectly, can endure extended wear, and are timeless? Shouldn’t that number be higher?

There is of course a movement away from this abyss of excess in the ethical and sustainable fashion community, albeit a less glamorous one.

What do you think?  What is it going to take to convince the consumer that lasting long term durability, exceptional fit, and designer quality outshines fast and fleeting, even if it means less clothes hanging in one’s closet?

Check out the following sites for more info on how we can change the industry!

http://www.ecofashionworld.com/

http://www.ethicalfashionforum.com/

http://www.fashioninganethicalindustry.org/teachingmaterials/

Loic Prigent is a french documentary filmmaker and self confessed fashion geek, who has chosen to highlight a rarely seen aspect of the industry-the 24 hours leading up to a runway show.  It is often curious and amazing to think that some of the most high profile, well established designers in the industry were willing to allow Prigent into their sacred circle during such an intimate, delicate, stressful time, when emotions are running high.  This I am sure, is a testament to Prigent’s approachability.  In person he comes across as very laid back and casual. He seems like someone you can trust, and someone who is genuinely intrigued by the how the fashion industry works.

Prigent is allowed into the exclusive studio offices and atelier of Alexander Wang for the day leading up to the New York Fashion Week runway show for the Fall/ Winter 2010 collection. Wang, famous in New York and in the fashion industry for being one of the youngest designers ever to reach the level of success and influence he has attained in a very short amount of time, is only 26. He also, as of the date of this film has built his success without the aid of external financing.  We find out, as the documentary progresses that Wang’s company consists of himself, his brother, and his sister-in-law, so it is truly a family run business.

Alexander Wang’s design aesthetic originally began with his self coined “model off duty” style, which incorporates a certain level of cool girl attitude, hipster slouch, and low street fashion staples rendered in ultra luxe fabrics and materials.  Wang goes on to say that, for him, fashion should make you question why a person made the choices they did in what they are wearing, and that fashion is ”a kind of strange beauty, a kind of more obscure, more weird kind of beauty.” By going behind the scenes the viewer is given an amazing opportunity to watch Wang’s work style, and the way in which he interacts with his team.  We see that Wang’s atelier is run in a manner of controlled chaos in which even major speedbumps, such as ripping the specially ordered black carpet off the runway catwalk because was not working, is handled with ease and grace.  It is not too difficult to see why some might consider Alexander Wang’s life to be charmed.  Loic Prigent’s The Day Before documentary series can be purchased on itunes.

-the image above was taken by Todd Selby of The Selby. Be sure to check out his amazing work photographing artists and designers in their homes.

How do you describe that girl who seems so innocent and pure, yet with a coquette eye for the future? She’s wearing Vera Wang.

She seems so unassuming, so unencumbered, so fresh and optimistic! It is no surprise Vera Wang’s inspiration for her Pre-Fall 2012-2013 collection is to be linked back to the 60’s. Paris in the 60’s to be exact.  It was a time of social and cultural revolution and a trend towards the left; towards idealism, freedom, youth, and a more bohemian way of life.

Wang has zeroed in on two major forces that shaped the world of fashion and style forever as the primary muses for the collection. Jane Birkin, the french actress, singer, and waif with an ethereal beauty; and Yves Saint Laurent, the french designer most famous for bringing the pantsuit for women into vogue.  Birkin brings the bohemia, and Saint-Laurent the Freedom.  You could say that this is Vera Wang’s love letter to Parisian Chic, although I eyed some conspicuously american elements in the mix!